Wildfire Planning Checklist In the years before the fire o Identify potential routes via which fire might approach the house

Wildfire Planning Checklist:

In the years before the fire-

Identify potential routes via which fire might approach the house. Pay attention to "ladder" fuels--areas of brush that might bring the fire to the house. These might be tree lines, hedges, flammable fences, etc. Interrupt these paths either by removing vegetation or inserting nonflammable fence sections adjoining the house.
Check the roof and decks to insure they are in good condition and do not have broken or displaced elements that might give wind-borne embers a place to take hold--rake or blow off leaves and twigs.
Provide a 30-foot defensible space around the house. [A 50-foot space would be preferable. Give the firefighter something to work with and an incentive to try.]
Identify and rehearse with primary and alternative escape routes for use in an emergency. [Escape routes might lead into danger unless there is good information about where the fire is and where it is headed. Be especially mindful of how fast the fire may move if the wind is strong and blowing a along your route.]
Identify local and remote places of refuge--local being within a short distance of your home where you can ride out the fire and get back to your home in time to deal with spot fires and to douse smoldering embers. The remote refuge should be well beyond the area impacted by the fire.
Establish normal and emergency communication plans. How would all family members hear about the fire? How would they contact each other about the fire? Outside the immediate fire area, how would family members communicate with each other? How would the family communicate with family and friends wherever they might be?
Define how the decision to evacuate would be made and how each family member would contribute.

When the fire is real and present-

Hoses at least 5/8 inch in diameter, connected to bibs, should be long enough to easily reach any part of the dwelling and should be covered with an abrasion-resistant covering. [To avoid kinking, lay the hoses out in loose 'esses.']
Your tool kit should include:
-at least one long-handled, round nose shovel
-at least one non-flammable ladder long enough to safely reach the roof
-at least one rake
-at least one 5-lb. general purpose fire extinguisher

These might be usefully supplemented with
-an axe or gas-powered chain saw
-a hoe
-metal trash cans to be filled with water at each major corner of the house
-one or more water buckets
-a back-up water supply and gas-powered water pump
-protective clothing, i.e., Nomex or, at least all-cotton long pants and long-sleeved shirt, layered if possible; leather shoes or boots; a hard hat and gloves. Goggles and a good filter mask will keep hot embers and soot out of your eyes and lungs.

When the fire is close and threatening-

Close all openings into the house--windows, doors, and especially vents. Screen all vent openings with metal screen no larger than 1/8 inch square [should have been done long beforehand]. Unprotected vents may be the leading cause of loss of homes, certainly after the main fire front has passed.
Close window protection equipment--shutters, non-flammable drapes, Venetian blinds, etc.
Remove flammable curtains, drapes, etc. from the windows. Move flammable furniture or any other flammable material or objects as far from windows as possible. Ordinary window glass will transmit heat almost perfectly. Radiant heat alone could ignite materials inside the house.
Test the water pressure at each faucet you might use. Be sure that water is turned off in all indoor faucets and that shut-off valves inside the house are turned off. If you think you will need water during the time of threat, fill sinks or other containers after you have made other preparations. [Why turn off the valves under the sinks and behind the toilets? To minimize the possibility that, if the heat becomes intense enough, it could melt the solder holding the pipes together and result in leaks that could all-the-more quickly exhaust water supplies or reduce pressure.]
If you have a vulnerable roof, raise the ladder and take a hose to it. [Remember however, that anyone on the roof will be exposed to intense heat and wind-blown embers. That person will be in an extremely dangerous position. No one should be in that position without the support and help of someone on the ground.]
Move flammable material, such as fire wood, as far as possible from the house. What cannot be removed should be brought inside.
Vehicles should be brought into the garage, if possible with the door closed. All vehicles should be left unlocked with keys in the ignition and should be parked headed toward the best escape route.
Cover the inside of all windows with aluminum foil or anything that will reflect heat. Windows should be double-paned insulated glass. In short, do whatever you can to prevent radiant heat or hot air from getting into the house.
If you have LPG or fuel oil tanks, shut them off at the tank or as far from the house as you can.

If fire overtakes the house-

Shelter in place. Retreat to the center of the house--that is likely to be the coolest place. If necessary lie on the floor. Heat rises, and the difference between the floor level and even as much as a foot above can be the difference between discomfort and injury. It could even be the difference between life and death. Use whatever material is available to mask your nose, mouth and eyes against smoke.
In these circumstances the main fire front is likely to move past the house in a matter of minutes. Exit the house on the side opposite the fire as soon as possible, and deal with any fires that may have started on or near the house. Everything will be hot so be sure to use gloves. That is also why you are wearing layers of cotton clothes and boots.